2009-03-31

Quirks and Quarks: Talks reality

The CBC's excellent radio show Quirks and Quarks had a guest who wrote a book "Physics for Presidents" and it got people in a bit of a tizzy. Listen to it in MP3 or OGG.

So much was the reaction, the host Bob MacDonald wrote about it in his blog.

Read it, then check the responses from people. My favourite:
Dave from Ottawa
"A kilogram of coal, on the other hand, contains about 1,000 times more energy than an equivalent volume of air blowing past a windmill."
Now subtract the energy it took to extract and transport that coal to the power plant.
My point is that energy density is a misleading measure. Update the article to compare net energy output of the sources.

My comment to Dave from Ottawa:
Now substract the energy it took to mine the iron, refine it into steel, bend and melt it into a turbine and alternator and transport it from Europe to Ontario. My point is that energy density is not the only measure but the single more leading indicator of a fuel's viability.

I repeat my theorem:
For an energy source to be viable, it must be produced from raw materials using only that fuel source.

Example:
If wind power is so great, produce more wind farms from raw materials using only wind power.

This test passes for coal, natural gas, petroleum, and nuclear power. It does not (yet?) pass for wind, solar, hydrogen, or ethanol. Biodiesel is on the fence.

Earth Hour - Consuption vs. Generation

Purpose


Like this blog, I am here to present facts and explain them. In short - the public data shows no less Coal or Natural Gas was burned during Earth Hour. And yes, the Nuclear plants were still going full-tilt (in fact the Bruce-B Generator-5 increased production prior to the event).

Introduction


It's great to "do our part" and not consume electricity. But we need to realize that less consumption does not always result in less pollution.

Sounds like anti-Earth propaganda doesn't it? Let me explain by using Earth Hour as an example.

The notion is if we turn off our lights and use less electricity, we make less pollution. Forget for a second that florescent lights in office buildings are much more efficient than the soft glow of incandescent lights typically in homes. And forget that lighting is a very small portion of the total electrical demand.

The Data


Think of how the electricity is generated. In Ontario there are 5 major fuel types being used for generation:
The Independent Electrical System Operator announced that during Earth Hour Ontario electrical demand dropped by 6% from the calculated expected demand.

And Here's The Catch...


Put yourself in IESO's shoes - you control the leavers that can crank up the generators.
  • Your Nuclear generators can be shut down in about 60sec, but take 3 days to get back up to speed - can't touch them since they're your work-horse generators.
  • Your Pulp&Paper and Wind generators produce a fraction of your capacity - don't bother turning them off.
  • Your Natural Gas and Goal generators boil large vats of water into steam to spin turbines. These monsters can turn on faster than Nuclear, but they still take almost an hour to reach full power. (NatGas is a more complicated than this, but you get the idea)
  • All you have left that you can control for this is to throttle down your Hydro generators which are very responsive to turn-off and turn-on commands (60sec!).


Conclusion


The irony is the fuel source perceived to be the cleanest - Hydro - is what gets turned off during Earth Hour because it's the only thing that can be turned on again as demand returns at the end of Earth Hour.

The graphs of the data provided by the IESO generators support this conclusion.

What would make IESO turn down the real polluters of its generation system? If Earth Hour was an all-day event.

2008-12-09

More on Algae Fuel

As I've said before in my blog, algae as biofuel is attractive.

Here's a proof of concept (shown on History Channel) that is using transparent tubes as bio-reactors collecting waste gas from a 1GW power station. It claims that 100% capture from the power station will need 2,000 acres of land or 8 square kilometers (2km x 4km).



The University of Kentucky is making making headlines on this. It's not new, but this is the direction we need to go in considering the 100-fold increase in photosynthetic performance.

2008-12-08

Hotwater from Geothermal

Last night it dipped down to -20C, the furnace was running quite a bit in the afternoon so I took this chance to turn off the electricity to our electrical hot water tank and let the furnace heat our hot water.



Here you see how the tank is hooked up to the furnace. As you can see, the hot water comes out the top of the tank (since heat rises). The furnace draws from the bottom, and returns to the bottom on the other side.

Once the power was turned off to the tank we ran the dish washer, did a sink full of dishes and our daughter had her bath.

2008-11-25

Updated Diesel/Hydro/NatGas Graphs

With winter coming, and our heat pump installed. I'll be doing my best to keep the graphs section (to the top and left) up-to-date.

2008-11-16

Fuel - A motion picture about BioFuel

Always bugs me when you see a film that is one sided (Roger Moore?) - even when I support their cause. But when I saw the guy going up to fast food joint saying:

"Can I have a medium Sprite and, uh, all your used cooking oil please?"

I have to admit a sense of respect for someone whose doing the same stuff I am.

Apple has the trailer up:
http://www.apple.com/trailers/independent/fuel/

Or watch it now at lower quality from YouTube:

2008-11-03

The CBC and Algae

The CBC is carryintg a story close to my heart.

Algae blooms: A new source of energy?

They cover the important details:
- ethenol isn't our future
- algae is the fastest growing plant
- algae has had a billion year head start
- link to the awesome CBC program Quirks and Quarks talking about Algae and engergy.

Let's hope the public learns more about this and next time I mention it at a party people don't look at me like I have two heads.

2008-09-30

2nd GeoThermal Furnace Video (what's inside)

Here's the second video, show what's inside the furnace. There's really only a few parts:
1) The refrigerant compressor
2) The heat exchanger
3) The blower
4) The computer control system

2008-09-29

GeoThermal Furnace Video

Here's a YouTube video of my furnace. More to come, busy these days. So sorry.

2008-08-02

Benefits of having a Veggie Vaggon

A local radio station was giving away tickets to people who had the best story for how they were going to get to Montreal to see Radiohead in concert.


I sent in my application with links to this blog and my youtube videos and I won. Nice.


Oh, furnace is in. I need to make some good videos before I post. It's kinda neat.

2008-06-19

"The Phoenix has Landed"

My contractor exclaimed to me on the phone in the usual gusto consistent with the stereotype of his cultural background. If you can't politely smile at stuff like that, what good is life?

Geothermal Heat Exchange furnace will be installed Monday/Tuesday next week (2008-06-23/24). In time to break it in a bit over the summer before the winter heating demands arrives.

2008-06-17

So you think you want do this?

$1.40 per litre fuel getting you down? Going veggie is a way to save some money. But don't go into this to save a couple bucks. It is important to keep in mind this is a hobby - treat it as such. Guidelines:

  • Spend time and thought to find the cheapest and best parts you need for your filtering.
  • Take effort into making the best quality oil you can
  • Pay attention to your car - check the engine temp before throwing the switch to run on veggie, check the oil temp while driving, sudden changes in outdoor temp will effect you so watch for it
  • And most of all - don't blame veggie oil for your flat tire. Use your brain, think things through.

    Here's someone who has emailed me asking questions I'd like to share. I got his permission to post this because he really seems to have the right mindset to take this on. Notice how cautious, analytical yet excited he is.

    I thought it would be a great thing to share - lots of juicy info.

    1. From Patrick to me

    Hi there,

    I should first probably start by thanking you, your YouTube videos and blog cleared up about a dozen lingering questions I've had stored up about the whole process. I'm sure you get a million e-mails so I'll try to keep it short...

    I'm about to buy a diesel Jetta, probably the exact same one you have (1999-2002-ish Jetta TDI) and I'm going to convert it immediately. I'd love to do it myself but I simply don't have the time or the workspace to undertake that kind of project. I'll end up taking it into a shop that offers the conversion. But you mentioned in one of the videos that the Jetta doesn't heat up quick enough and the trunk tank doesn't reach temperature as fast as you would like it to. When I take my car in for installation, should I insist that they install a heat element in the inside of the tank? Will that remedy the problem? I'd like to use as little diesel as possible.

    Basically, what would you do differently if you were going to buy a Jetta all over again? What should I make sure about when I go through my installation process?

    Thanks so much, I really appreciate your time and the valuable information you've made available. I'm in Rochester, NY, if that's pertinent.

    2. From me to Patrick

    Good call on bringing it to a shop. That era of Jetta is very low to the ground and the hoses are not easy to run. I was going to do it myself and just about started to disconnect stuff then I tried to crawl under my car while I had it jacked up 10 inches. It just can't be done without a full hydrolic lift. You need full 6 degrees of freedom do install the kit in a Jetta.

    Here's what I'd do:
  • get a vegtherm mega from plantdrive make sure it's positoned just before the injector pump so it heats up the oil as a final stage.
  • get a rocker switch with a back light ($5) from canadian tire or some hardware store - this will control the VegThermMega
  • get a flat flate heat exchanger (or brazed plate, same diff). I got mine from Omar: OmarSales.com 16 plates will do.
  • You want the hotest coolant from the engine, and the vegoil from the filter assembly for maximum benifit
  • ask your mechanic if this is possible (it wasn't for me because I did each of the above in seperate steps) to install a ZeroStart coolant heater. This is a 110V plug-in-the-wall heater. It doesn't heat the engine block. It heats the coolant and by convection (depending on how your coolant lines are run) the coolant will circulate. This will heat up your engine + veggie oil + coolant 10x better than a simple block heater.
  • If you can't do a ZeroStart, or even if you can it *might* be a good idea to ... Install a hot-water heating element in the veggie oil tank. If you get a GreaseCar/Frybrid/PlantDrive kit, this means you need to drill a hold sideways into the tank. The electrical cable would need to remain accessible so you can plug it in overnight in the winter.
  • install temperature sensors on the FPHE and just after the VegTherm. Once the FPHE is @ about 50C (or 45C in weather over 20C) and the car engine oil temp on the dash is at the steady-state temp then you know you can switch on the VegTherm and go veggie powered. After that, just watch as the 2nd temp guage rises and gives your confirmation that everything is going well. The temp guages I used were $20 SnapOn brand Air Conditioning guages that run on 1 AAA battery. I run the wire under the hood and into the driver door. They rest in my drive-side door well where I can grab them as needed. Maybe I'll velcro them to the dashboard. but then the wires would be visible... meh. Temperature montioring is vital to knowing you're not feeding sludge into your fine car.

    Big email. But the jist is - get it installed right the first time. It's annoying as heck to bring the car back 6months later to install another heating unit. Best of luck and send photos. :)
  • 3. From Patrick to me

    Hi again!

    Thanks so much for the reply, I now feel like I'm prepared to make the leap. I think I've got a line on an '01 TDI, also. Hopefully I'll be the owner in a few days.

    I'll definitely be picking up the parts you've listed. I'm in Rochester, NY, so I'm probably in the same boat as you with needing to heat up the coolant and oil as much as possible in as many ways as possible. You're in Canada, right?

    I read the product description for the VegTherm Mega, and it looks like it can be configured to turn on using the same switch that you would use to start the WVO flow. In the interest of simplicity and less wiring/switches, would you recommend doing it this way? Are there any problems that you could foresee that doing it this way would present? Here is what it says on the VegTherm page:

    ...it can be installed to switch to SVO at the same time SVO is selected, in fact, the same "trigger" that switches a valve to SVO can turn on the Vegtherm.

    The ZeroStart kit you mentioned, is it the one produced by FrostHeater - the TDIHeater (http://www.frostheater.com/)? It looks like a good kit and it's relatively low-cost. What currently prevents you from installing one? Did you mount something in the place where the TDIHeater is supposed to be mounted? Or will it just be more trouble for you than it's worth to do it at this point?

    You bring up a question that I did still have... When the veggie oil is just sitting in the trunk tank overnight, is it in danger of thickening in sub-freezing temperatures? Does this slow down the changeover process? Is there any difficulty in drawing the oil from the rear tank during cold-weather months? Obviously, it does eventually warm up, but it would probably be wise to install a heating element, like you've mentioned, correct?

    Like I said, if there's a way to shorten the window from diesel startup to WVO switch-over, I'm all for it. I'd like to use as little diesel as possible. If it means installing an element at an additional cost, I'm sure I'll recoup it over time if I burn less diesel, and of course it would be that much less emissions into the atmosphere, which is my primary objective. What kind of wattage should I think about using for the heating element in the trunk tank?

    You also made mention that you would be switching over to 1 micron bags soon. Did you do so yet? How has it worked out? Also, I went over to fiterbag.com, and I'm having trouble figuring out which bags I'll need. I'll probably construct a similar filtration rig, if not identical, to the station you've set up. At FilterBag, they've got everything labelled as part numbers, but I can't tell which one is the 1 micron package. Can you tell me which ones you order?

    I also had one last question about your dewatering tank. I'm headed off to the scrap yard soon to try to locate something similar this week. What material would you consider ideal, and how clean does it have to be? Obviously I'll avoid anything with corrosion, but should I look for something that's really spic & span? Or will any old tank do, as long as it can be cleaned up? I'm trying to save money on this aspect of the process, but if you'd consider it very important to get a high-quality tank, then I'll do what I gotta' do.

    I can't tell where exactly in the video, but where should I install the heating element? Right near the bottom? Maybe 4 inches or so from the bottom? Also, I see that you've got an exhaust fan at the top of the tank, which has a lid. Is the lid part of the tank? Or did you fabricate it yourself? Did you cut any sort of hole at the top of the tank to work with your venthilation? If so, what size?

    I'll definitely be documenting the process with photos and probably a blog. A large reason for doing this is to also raise environmental awareness. I'll be sure to point people to your blog and YouTube channel, they're easily the best how-to resources on the 'net in the field.

    Again, thanks so much, I know I've sent over a million questions, any help would be very, very appreciated!

    Talk to you soon,

    4. From me to Patrick

    Hey,

    I'll try to answer everything here.

  • You're in Canada, right? - Yup, Ottawa.
  • VegThermMega sharing a switch? - It'll work. but I recommend a separate switch. Check this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhR7TIgDgOs), it can be done very nicely. You want to be careful not to overload your alternator. In the summer you'll probably have a huge load from the AirCond and you will not need the VegThem for very long in the summer.
  • TDIHeater and the ZeroStart are the same unit? Yes. They work by convection - there is no pump. This means there are restrictions on how the plumbing of the coolant lines. I found it to be (a) incompatible with how I routed the lines and (b) little to no room for it. The FPHE took up a fair amount of space. For it to work you need a good 1-2ft of vertical coolant hose leading directly into the top of the engine block. This will create the draft needed to circulate the coolant. If you don't do this, the coolant will not circulate and you'll just melt the coolant line directly above the heater. And since most veggie kits make your coolant system "unconventional" this can be tricky. Not impossible I think, just tricky.
  • GreaseCar uses hose-in-hose for under the car. With with proper back-flushing will eliminate any clogged fuel lines. The vegoil in the tank will gel of course, but heat from engine will eventually heat that up (once the engine heats up and then the coolant, and then the vegoil). Installing a 12inch 240V AC heating element and only running it on 120V AC wall-outlet power will make it a 1000W heater (1kWh costs me $0.05). That'll heat the vegoil in a full 40L tank from -25C to 30C in 1hr. It's important to make sure that element is 100% submerged when you plug it in. Otherwise it'll make stinky smoke from the burned oil. I currently have a 750W j-shaped element I poke in from the top of the tank. Not ideal - but saves about 30min of highway driving in switch-over time. Live and learn.
  • That reminds me - make sure you insulate the tank. You have the cylinder like mine, don't use expanding foam - it'll crush/crack the molding of your car trunk. Do for 0.5" or 1.0" heat resistant Styrofoam and cut it to shape for under/around/ontopof the tank. Save all that precious heat.
  • filterbag.com's "bag finder" tool is great. Polyprop felt, size #1, plastic ring (cheaper), micron rating 1-3. I see two options there right now. Donno the difference. Pick any one. Get 50 bags, it'll last you 3 years, easy. Havn't done any filtering yet, still got my stock pile from the fall. It'll flow slowly, so just process a bit at a time. Once in the morning, once when you get home, once before going to bed. That should be about 40-60L per day.
  • My barrel was used to store mangoes I think. So I guess it was "food grade" at some point. The paint lining inside the barrel was intact, and only corrosion was on the outside along metal seams where the rain got at it. I took it home, hosed it down, and even took a rag and some dish detergent (get a 4L bottle of this, it does magic with cleaning up any vegoil mess) and made sure it was clean. Exposed metal is OK if there is no rust. VegOil is great for corrosion protection. Seriously.
  • I'm not happy with my ventilating hole at this time. It double duties as a place to dump in the filtered oil. So it's huge (1ft x 8in I'd say). If I had my way, I keep that hole (which I made with some power tools - the barrel came with a lid) but make a "lid" for it to keep dust out. Then have a small 2-3" hole for venting. On that I'll put my cheapo bathroom fan to suck out any smell and blow it outside. The heating element is about 4" from the bottom yes - I like it there. 2" would be better, but beware - come barrels have wavy ridges. These cannot be drilled-and-sealed properly. Only put holes in the barrel/tank where it is smooth. Then just use rubber washers to finish the seal.

    Well, best of luck with your setup. You're asking all the right questions and I don't get a sense you're rushing to save money - a good sign you'll make it to the "yay! I'm now saving money" before you reach "dang, I need to rebuild my injector pump". Cutting corners by using 2nd hand barrels and such is OK - just don't get lazy. And I see you're taking this seriously.

    Cheers.
  • 2008-06-08

    Veggie Oil Theft on CBC

    Here's an interesting podcast from CBC on 2008-05-08.

    Description from CBC.ca:

    Grease Bandits: Contractor

    Grease is the word, as they say. For greasers in the movie and musical Grease that word meant slick hair goo and a whole way of life, but grease has become a coveted fuel source. So much so, there's a black market for grease.

    This raw grease can be refined into yellow grease, which can be used to make biofuel, and as the world's appetite for biofuel increases, so goes the demand for grease.

    Restaurants, with their bubbling deep fryers, have always had lots of grease to dispose of, and sometimes companies pick it up for them. But increasingly, grease collectors complain that thieves are pilfering restaurant grease.

    Our producer Michael O'Halloran visited a restaurant in Calgary to see what they do with their grease.

    You might say that yellow grease is a new black gold, a hot commodity whose price has tripled. And with that rapid rise in value, grease banditry is rampant in some U.S. states. That bothers people like Christopher Griffin, director of legal affairs for Griffin Industries, a company that's been collecting restaurant grease since 1943. He joined us from Cold Spring, Kentucky.

    Grease Bandits - Lawyer

    Some might say that catching one of these thieves is like catching greased lightning, but others argue that these cases aren't really theft at all.

    Jon Jaworski is an attorney in Texas who has represented dozens of clients accused of stealing the often stinky stuff. His work has earned him a reputation as the "grease lawyer," and we reached him at his office in Houston.

    Grease Bandits - Canada

    Grease theft may be a growing problem in the U.S., but for some perspective on the situation in Canada, we were joined in Toronto by Stu Porter, the biodiesel technical advisor to the Canadian Renewable Fuels Association.

    2008-06-04

    Essay: Pick Your Poison

    Pardon for the diversion from my usual subject matter.

    Someone I know by the name of John Ogilvie asked me to put into a letter what I've come to learn about nuclear power so he could have something to share with other Green Party members. Apparently the Green Party is flatly against nuclear power generation inspite of its benefits (not that it's without drawbacks).

    I kept my policy of "back it up with facts". Here's what I shared with him.




    Pick Your Poison


    Facts to be used when discussing nuclear power


    Our society is in the midst of a search for sources of power that are both safe and bountiful but none exist that can displace our current technologies - so we are left with a choice between the available evils. Is nuclear power one of these evils? Strong emotions are evoked when the words "nuclear power" (pronounced 'noo-clee-ar pow-er') are spoken. Prime among them is fear. Most people's nuclear knowledge extends only as far as WW2 mushroom clouds, Chernobyl, and waste disposal problems. It is only possible to have an educated discussion on the potential for nuclear power to fill our energy needs when the facts are examined as objectively and quantitatively as possible. After all, nuclear power is not as common as the combustion energy sources we're used to.

    Let's consider the implications of shutting down all of the coal-, oil- and natural gas-fired generating stations in Ontario. This would remove 3.3 Gigawatts (17.7%) from Ontario's electrical generation capacity. How would this be replaced, assuming no change to consumption? There are no viable large hydroelectric sites, photovoltaic (PV) solar panels consume immense power for production, and wind turbines are almost as costly as PV cells. And as we know in government - management of hundreds of small projects would be cumbersome compared to management of several large projects, so it's "go big or go home" when we're taking about the electrical grid.

    Let's look at the fuel used for nuclear power: uranium. Several forms of uranium exist. Uranium-238, unsuitable for use as fuel, accounts for over 99% of all natural uranium and has a half-life of 4,470 million years (higher the half-life, the less radioactive the material). Uranium-235, suitable for fuel and weapons, accounts for less than 1% and has a half-life of 704 million years. In other words, natural uranium is weakly radioactive. By comparison carbon-14 - a natural source of radioactivity found in all living things - has a half-life of 5,730 years (0.005 million years). C-14 is radiologically toxic in comparison to U-238 and U-235. The dreaded plutonium-239 has a half-life of 24,100 years and is chemically unstable in an oxygen atmosphere.

    Let's also examine the nuclear reactor used in Canada - the legendary CANDU. I will not use the term "legendary" without qualification. The CANadian Deuterium Uranium rectors were conceived, designed, developed, and constructed in Canada by the predecessor of Atomic Energy Canada Limited (AECL) in the 1950s. But since Canada was (is?) a peaceful nation, the lack of Canadian uranium enrichment facilities led to a reactor design that used unenriched Uranium. Enrichment is the process which increases the concentration of U-235 from <1% to about 9% to reach criticality easier. In a nutshell, the geometry of the reactor core allows CANDU reactors to run on unenriched fuel, and is the reason that it takes days to start-up a CANDU. Remember how after the blackout of 2003 it took days to get electricity back in the province? A safety side-effect of the CANDU design is if the reactor starts to overheat, the core will soften and deform, breaking the geometry of the reactor core and thereby breaking criticality - the nuclear chain reaction will slow down and not run-away to a meltdown. Put simply, Three Mile Island and Chernobyl wouldn't have happened if they used CANDU reactors.

    How much do we rely on nuclear power? There are 3 nuclear generating stations in Ontario: Darlington, Pickering and the privately operated Bruce. These 3 sites produce over 50% of the peak electrical demand for the most populated province in the country. That is without doubt an awesome amount of power generation for such a small number of stations of relatively small size.

    Ok then, so how much material is used in generating electricity using CANDU reactors? One litre of diesel fuel - like that used in oil fired generating stations - has an energy density of 45.47 Megajoules per kilogram (or about 0.0126 Megawatt-hours per kilogram). According to the IAEA and the World Nuclear Fuel Market, more than 55.5 Megawatt-hours of electricity is generated in a CANDU for every kilogram of uranium. The energy density of nuclear fuel is therefore 4,400 times higher than oil and one kilogram of uranium would be enough to power a home for over 4.5 years. The main downside of nuclear power is the waste is just about the nastiest stuff imaginable. But the waste from a CANDU reactor can be refined and reacted a second and even a third time in a CANDU reactor. Once it's totally spent, the waste is stowed away and unusable as weapons matirial. By contrast, the waste products of combustion generation (i.e., coal, oil or natural gas) are emissions into the atmosphere and you know the CO2 story there. The key is safe long-term storage of nuclear waste.

    Now what about the safety of combustion energy? Let's look at the tar sands as an example of safety. Here is a link to a satellite view of a settling pond where processing waste is left to separate. Notice how only 400 meters separates the pond from the Athabasca River (a 1,200 km river, 9th longest in Canada). If we talk about nuclear waste accidents and meltdowns, let's talk about the cost of a spill from one of these ponds into the Athabasca River. The cost would be incalculable. The Exxon Valdez spilled 41.6 million liters of oil across 760 kilometers of shoreline. A break in the levee of a single major settling pond in Fort McMurray would be on the same scale to downstream wildlife and human uses.

    Uranium mining is nothing like working on a reactor in a power plant. Because of the relatively low concentrations of uranium in ore, most mines are open-pit and resemble a quarry. The workers don't wear protective equipment against the radiation because of the low radioactivity (high half-life). In fact, it's adequate that they're inside the cabin of a dump truck. The principal risk from uranium mining isn't the uranium itself (since it has such a low half-life); it is from one by-product of uranium decay - the noble gas radon. Though it is found in extremely low concentrations, radon is airborne and highly radioactive, with a half life measured in hours. Uranium is not airborne (being 70% denser than lead) and not a risk to any surrounding population - at least no more dangerous than mining for any other mineral.

    So there you have it - a few details. Now that it's served on a silver platter you can call shenanigans on someone who spews nonsense. Our societal necessity - or at least dependence - on reliable electricity requires that we discuss the facts of generation and not the hyperbole and hearsay. We owe it to ourselves and the future of our society to make the most informed choices to prevent environmental consequences. Nuclear power isn't chocolate boxes and roses, but neither is any other source of energy. But with the proper facts in hand, we can discuss the options rationally. I hope this letter has served that purpose with respect to nuclear power.

    References

    1. Uranium:
    2. Uranium mining:
    3. Carbon-14:
    4. Plutonium:
    5. The CANDU Nuclear Reactor:
    6. World uranium consumption and electrical generation:
    7. Electrical generation in Ontario:
    8. The 2003 Ontario and North Eastern US blackout:
    9. Diesel oil energy:
    10. Map of the Exxon Valdez disaster:
    11. Darlington Nuclear Generating Station:
    12. Single settling pond in Fort McMurray tar sands
    13. Rabbit Lake Saskachewan Uranium Mine

    2008-06-02

    Natural Gas Speculation

    I peeked around for discussion on natural gas proces and came across a site that sounded objective and reasonably researched (or at least read). They gave this chart of past natural gas prices and some projections on its future cost.



    Their reasons for their prediction of 30% increase in natural gas in the next 6-8 months?
  • Lower production from new gas wells, less new drilling and depletion of older wells.
  • New electricity generation is usually gas fired. The gas to be used in planned natural gas generators in Ontario equal a quarter of TOTAL provincial annual demand.
  • Supply is flat and is expected to remain so, and demand is up.
  • Historical oil-to-gas ratio is 7.5, putting gas at $13 per Gigajoule

    It's crystal ball gazing, but worth mentioning.
  • 2008-05-28

    Drilling Completed

    The drilling is done. It was loud. It was dusty. It was awesome!

    The drill holes were done at 11 degrees in one direction, and 22 degrees in the other. This is approximate based on my measurements.

    Top view, looking down on the roof of the house:


    Front view, looking at a cross section towards the front of the house.


    Some videos:
    Drill through overburden (aka. top soil).


    Drilling through sandstone.


    Feeding the copper heat exchanger down the 100ft hole.


    The target.


    The equipment arrives at 09:00.


    45min later it's ready to go.


    What I see from my living room.


    Drilling gets underway.




    It makes a mess.


    What the drill bit looks like. It sounded LOUD. I measured it at 105dB at 5 meters away. When the drill shaft is pulled up and each link is separated - it would spike at 120dB.


    Examine the hole.


    Prepare the heat exchanger to go down. Notice the block of metal for grounding in case of lightning strikes.


    Send the copper heat exchanger down the hole.


    Fill it with silica sand (crushed quartz) up to the rock-overburden interface.


    Then fill the top with "hole plug" bentonite. This is a form of clay that seals the top of the drill hole to prevent surface water from getting down deep in the rock.


    Repeat 2 more times, and you're done for the day.


    Next - we wait for the furnace unit to arrive and final stages of installation take place.

    2008-05-27

    Drilling today

    Well, the contractor from Earth Energy called me last week to arrange a time to start drilling for my furnace. "The phoenix has landed" he announced in his usual colourful exclamation.

    And about the same time I got an email from a reader of this blog advising me to stay away from them. I'm not surprised since my experience with the owner was been less than reassuring. When the unit is installed, I'll be asking questions and taking notes. Such a niche furnace - it'll be hard to find good maintenance should this contractor go under.

    Your thoughts on what info to ask for is most welcome fellow readers. Here's me list so far.
    1. What's the refrigerant used in the heat exchanger?
    2. How much refrigerant?
    3. At what pressure is the heat exchanger filled to?
    4. Make a list of parts inside the unit (small moving parts will likely be the first to break down)

    And yes, there will be photos and videos of the mess they'll be bringing down on our house.

    2008-05-08

    Cost of electricity less than zero?!

    Fun story on the CBC today:
    http://www.cbc.ca/cp/Oddities/080507/K050704AU.html

    In short - it was cheaper to pay people to take power than it was to shut down generators.

    This is what happens when daytime power consumption is 20-30% higher than in the middle of the night.

    If only we could consume power more evenly...?

    Most people immediately think - "why don't we store the power in batteries!". I suggest - do the math. The energy to be store is gargantuan!!! Basically there are only two way to store that much energy:
    1. Thermal potential
    2. Gravitational potential

    Thermal potential is easy enough to visualize - heat something up to several times the boiling point of water and insulate it until it is need 8 hours from now in the day. Thermal solar power is one example of this. This is why thermal solar power is more attractive for base electrical demand - it can still generate power when the clouds come in.

    Gravitational potential does not involve a black hole or a TARDIS - but water. Using power from base load generators at night to run pumps to lift water a few 100ft up a hill or precipice into a large (kilometers wide) reservoir. The gravitational potential of 1 million tonnes of water is far greater than $100 million in batteries. And at a fraction the cost.

    2008-04-29

    Hydrogenated or non-H Veggie Oil?

    I only use non-hydrogenated veggie oil when I filter or in my car. In short, hydrogenated oil is not commonly called veggie oil, but veggie shortening or veggie lard (ie. Crisco).

    My pumping hot hydrogen gas under pressure and in the presence of a catalyst - veggie oil will cease being liquid at room temperature. This is what McDonald's and KFC use for cooking. This is also how margarine is made. Still think it's healthy?

    So when you collect veggie oil for your car - be sure to ask that it's in fact veggie oil and not veggie shortening. Then ask again - "is it liquid at room temperature?" - some people need that last bit of clarification.

    2008-04-28

    Washing waste veggie oil and why I don't do it.

    I've read around that it's a good idea to wash waste veggie oil (WVO) - I wasn't convinced.

    I know one must wash biodiesel to get methanol, glycerin and Sodium-hydroxide by products out. But to wash straight-up WVO?

    There are two common ways to wash BioDiesel (which some people recommend for WVO as well):
    1. Mist washing
    2. Bubble washing



    Both methods can cause emulsification of the water and oil (aka. salad dressing) so heating the water and oil is important to inhibit this behaviour. 50C will do fine if you're gentle - higher temperatures will be needed if you really agitate the two fluids.

    I tried to wash 10L of my 10 micron filtered oil (my car fuel) with 10L of tap water in a small 30L glass aquarium. I bought an aquarium air pump, a 30cm wand bubbler (to make a bubble curtain), and a 150W aquarium heater. I hooked it all up, poured it all in and let it all go for 48 hours.



    Result? No much changed in the colour or clarity of the oil. There isn't an other way to know if the quality improved without getting scientific testing equipment. The water got smokey - but that might just be oil suspended in the water. Plus I'd have to spend more time and mess dewatering now.

    As it stands, I will not add any washing stage to my filtering operation until I can see more evidence.